I love a touch of contradiction incorporated into my menswear aesthetic and this past Fall/Winter we have seen some great updates to mens suiting. Wether it be the use of unconventional textures or a modernized classic print these tweaks add visual interest and depth to the outfit. I just love to keep people guessing.
Here are some of my personal favorites from the runways:
As we listen to the weather man rambling on about how much cold weather we are going to have this year we can’t help but feel thankful for this season's over-sized coat trend. With these larger than life designs we will be able to pile on enough layers to keep us warm in the coldest of conditions.
Chloe's runway show had a structured feel with over-sized boxy pieces and tailored pants; however there was a play with sheer fabrics, layering, and tulle adding an element of fun and excitement. This perfectly balanced collection featured blacks,whites, pale pinks, beiges, and oranges.
The Chanel runway show featured several different looks ranging from the traditional blacks and whites to floral patterns and chiffon pieces with cut outs. The silhouette we saw the most was the skirt-dress, an a-line shape sitting just above the bust. Also incorporated into the collection were many boxy jackets cropped high above the waist.
Christian Dior’s runway show embraced the ideas of freedom and liberation by using traditional Dior silhouettes to emphasise the female body. Nevertheless the looks were still sporty with a minimalistic yet edgy feel. Colors ranged from blacks and whites to shimmering brights, neons and pastels.
Nina Ricci was as feminine as ever but with a surprise of hard edginess and sex appeal. The collection featured sequins, leather, and lots of fishnets. Silhouettes were tailored and clung loosely from the body. Colors ranged from blues, pinks, silver, and grays.
Celebrating its 90th anniversary this year, the Akris runway show featured 90 different looks ranging from neutrals to greens and bright yellows. The silhouettes were tailored and fitted without the appearance of tightness. The collection featured many sheer pieces as well as many racer backs and v-necklines.
This season Jil Sander presented their first women's collection in eight years but her pure and minimalist looks made us feel like she never left. The collection was timeless with beautifully structured garments in deep wines and navys.
Fendi continued to stick with the traditional use of leather and fur on the runway but played into the season's trends using shirt-dresses and geometric shapes to give the collection a sporty feel. Nevertheless the futuristic and artistic approach made the garments unique.
Exotic skins, lace, and leather played major roles on Ferragamo's runway this season. Although the heavy trench coats and long sleeved knits did not feel very spring-like, the collection was still beautiful and we couldn't find a look we didn't love. We thought the shoes were worthy of stealing the show with the leather over-the-knee boot sandals shown with short skirts and trench coats alike.
Prada embraced the idea that femininity is a balance between being delicate and edgy. The colors ranged from blacks and whites to deep shades of green, purple and orangey-red; and then some light pastel pinks and greens to finish. Garments were adorned with different florals in panels and patterns and the silhouettes had a modern feel with a lot of folding, as well as some simple a-line cuts.
Roberto Cavalli's collection focused on the many elegant and sexy ways of framing a women's body. Silhouettes ranged from barely-there slips to flowing dresses to wonderfully tailored suits. The color palette started with stark, all-white ensembles but later incorporated beautiful patterns in light pinks, greens and oranges, and eventually transitioned into darker patterns and of course the use of animal prints - all with eye-catching textures and detail using lace, intricate cut-outs and elaborate embellishments.
We admire designer gowns on the runway each season, but to see them worn down the red carpet is a whole new type of excitement. Last night celebrities became the models for the pieces from some of our favorite designers during the 2012 Emmy Awards.
January Jones wore a beautifully structured black Zac Posen gown with sheer organza and asymmetrical banding to create a modern feel. Although edgy, the dress still looked very elegant with a deep neckline and minimal jewelery. Jones wore her hair sleeked back and peep-toe platforms to complete the look.
Monique Lhuilier's gowns made several appearances, a couple in orange pictured below, looking beautiful on Ginnifer Goodwin and Padma Lakshm.
We caught up with designer Daniella Kallmeyer during New York Fashion Week backstage at her Spring 2013 collection runway show. See what she has to say about her fast-track success story, the influence of her South African heritage and the future of her brand, as well as behind the scenes and front row photos from her runway show:
Six years ago you were a freshmen in college with dreams of becoming a designer. Today you have a successful collection with looks that has been featured in WWD, Vogue, and more. You have risen very quickly, how have you achieved so much in such a short span of time? I had worked for several different companies but wasn’t feeling fulfilled. When I started my line I wasn't ready financially and wasn't sure I had enough experience; I believe in survival of the fittest. I have had to figure out everything as I go. It has been a great learning experience. Now I have found myself on an island I wanted to be but I am here alone. I am my own boss for every part of the business. Would you agree with the saying “start before your ready?” It sounds like you have become successful by keeping your head out of the water and following one foot in front of the other, would you say this is true? Yes. Yes, absolutely! I didn't come into the industry with huge financial backing so I had to learn how to be creative with my money and make a one man show look like a million. How would you describe the Daniella Kallmeyer woman? I pride myself in the fact that my line is quite timeless and ageless. The pieces themselves are transformative. A piece that would look edgy or have sex appeal on a young woman would never look on an older woman like she wasn’t dressing her age. The Daniella Kallmeyer woman has an appreciation for the classics. Simplicity. Each piece is designed so the wearer can interpret it into her own style. Artsy, metropolitan, or class. Young or old. She has a look of effortlessness. Understated edginess with a twist on classics. Seamless throughout life style, age, and geography.
How has your South African heritage influenced your designs? My parents are from South Africa where I was born but I have family in Israel and throughout Europe. I have a lot of multicultural influence in my life. A girl pulled from South Africa, I like to create something raw out of something sophisticated. Studying in England has also played a huge role in the importance of my tailoring. My clothes are a classic experience but also something that could transition to a party in New York City or London. In the past you said that you wanted to design costumes for Broadway? Do you still see that in your future at all? I do but not in the same way I imagined when I was younger. When I was young I wanted my career to be everything I loved in one: clothes and theatre. Now what I am most passionate about is turning my beautiful clothing and ideas into a business, but I still love theatre and there is still a place in my heart for it. I would love my clothes to be featured in musicals and operas the same way other important designers have in the past. It would be a beautiful experience for me. Where do you see the Daniella Kallmeyer brand in five, ten years? I'm hoping for it to grow even more over the next few seasons. I would like to re-introduce accessories into the brand. My first couple of collections featured jewelry that were tied to the history of my grandmother, using old scrap metals of hers that she had worked for out of the war. Right now I am grasping a strong foundation. In the future I see a denim line and then eventual men's or uni-sex.
Kristen of Style Circle (far left) with Daniella (center) and members of her team
Norisol Ferrari's Spring/Summer 2013 runway show was full of excitement, feeling more like a theatrical performance than a fashion presentation.
"Think curves of Marilyn Monroe, Rita Hayworth, and Rita Moreno. All strong confident women who command attention, desire, and respect", says Ferrari of her collection. She enthused the audience with dramatic music and refreshingly surprised us with a wider age range of models, which better reflects her target customer. Instead of the typical catwalk strut, we saw icons such as Carol Alt, Alva Chin, and Carmen Dell'Orefice dance and swirl down the runway, earning large rounds of applause.
The clothing alone spoke in loud volumes with thirty-two looks ranging from wearable daytime fashions to wedding couture. Each look was very sophisticated and elegant with structured shapes that show off the femininity of the body. One look consisted of a black and white dress with a red floral pattern, which really summed up any presence of color in this collection; the rest incorporating beige with black, white and the occasional metallic. What stole my attention, sitting three rows backs, were the large hats and structured headpieces, which sported over-sized brims and short veils, respectively.
The school year may have just started, but Sherri Hill is ready for prom (per usual). The Spring 2013 runway show at the 5th Avenue Trump Tour featured looks from short and playful to long and sexy.
Kendall and Kylie Jenner modeled full miniskirts created from layers of tulle in hot pink and bright blue; their tops cap-sleeved and adorned with sequins and jewels. The look was youthful with a touch of sex appeal with an exposed mid-section on Kendall and sheer paneling and open backs on both. Hill used tulle and volume in some of her longer looks as well, creating mermaid silhouettes in teal green and soft pink. The sophisticated styles had a more grownup feel but, as the Teen Vogue assistant who was my front-row mate mentioned, they could easily be seen at a formal high school dance.
Other looks by Sherri Hill may be too risque for a 17-year-old though; the collection showed some form-fitting garments in sheer fabrics and high slits with just enough embellishment to cover the necessary areas, leaving very little to the imagination.